Quick msg to let you know we´re moving back to our old hostel, as they now have room available until we leave on Wed morning for Patagonia.
This place is nice however we just dont feel safe in the locale outside, so we're heading back to our old home.
All's well and we're having a fab time. Sad about the earthquake but it hasnt impacted us here and we're not going to go via Santiago on our way north from Patagonia to Bolivia. We'll just have to find a different route!
Hope you are all well.
2 March 2010 18:32:
What a lovely letter baby...
I really cannot have enough of your travel notes; please keep them coming, as often as you can.
I am glad your experiences with the locals have so far been pleasant. God be praised. Even so, as a concerned parent I will still warn you that caution is the word. It is better to be forewarned and careful, that be sorry later. I really do not want that chance to point a finger and say "I told you so!".
Nothing else for tha moment, so I will wind up.
Take care baby..
Love you..
daddy
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3 March 2010 02:15
Subject: South American Adventure Part I
Hi All,
It's our last day in Buenos Aires so I thought I would drop you all a quick line to let you know how things have been going so far with our S. American Adventure!!
We have now seen: Rio de Janiero, Ilha Grande (Big Island), Iguazzu Falls, Buenos Aires & Tigre. My favourite place (surprisingly) has been Rio by far!! Perhaps it's a combination of the blue skies & sunshine (yes, I have tanned BIG time and I am now resigned to it) or perhaps the delicious food and the friendly people!? Or perhaps the fact that everyone thought I was Brazilian and seemed to understand my terrible Portugese! Whatever the reason, Rio surpassed any expectation that I had and I would definitely recommend it as a fun, chilled out and culturally interesting vacation!
Buenos Aires has been fantastic as well. It definitely lives up to its reputation as the Paris of South America... however it has a strange INDIAN twist to it. For example, the streets are lined with "kioskos" (mini kiosks) that burn & sell agarbattis (incense sticks) giving the avenues a strange indian temple vibe! Plus everyone wears indian paraphenalia like jewellery and Om necklaces, even their pants look like the pyjamas indian women wear under the kameez / long tunic tops! But there are hardly ANY indians in this place!!! So strange...
The locals have been quite taken by TJ & I, as they think we're Brazilian but when we speak they realize we must be Brits or Americans, which confuses them no end. Random strangers come upto us in the tubes, streets, buses, cafes, bars, etc just to compliment us on our eyes or complexion (which I find hysterical)!!! At first we were weirded out by it remembering your advice - "do not trust strangers" - but now we're enjoying the compliments and making sure we take advantage of it, especially when it allows us to go free into places!!! :)
Besides the obvious sights and incredible natural wonders of the world (i.e. Iguazzu), our trip has really only been a success so far because of the locals! We've had strangers help us figure out the weird telephone system in S. America (unbelievably frustrating), give us directions, buy us bus tickets when we didnt have change, help us figure out cooking instructions on soup packets, etc etc!!!!! And dont believe a word the guidebooks say about the taxi drivers in Rio or Buenos Aires... they have been absolutely WONDERFUL!! We've literally had our own tour guides with these guys, or they are extremely daddy-like warning us in their broken english to watch out for thieves etc.
I can't believe it has been 3.5 weeks since we left England for S. America... time has flown and I've only had one hissy fit so far *phew*
Tomorrow we head to the southern most city in the World... Ushuaia, where we hope to see magellan penguins, the Beagle channel and lots of glaciers!! Oh how could I forget the incredible steaks we've been having as well and can you believe I actually LIKE the red wine as well!!!! Absolutely out of this world! :)
I do miss the comforts of home, but we're definitely enjoying the rollercoaster ride and looking forward to the next few weeks of living in the blistering cold wilderness of the Antarctic!! Right now I could SO do with No. 7 - my lovely reflexology man ;) But I've been told I havent earned it yet... I feel like I've walked MORE in the last 3 weeks than I have in the last 2 yrs in Cali!!!!! Bloody hell I've earned it!!! *sigh* But I'll wait... we're planning to have a fab pampering session as soon as we reach Peru AFTER we're done with the Inca Trail *yikes*
There's SO much I could write to you guys about... but I'll leave it at that.
Hope you are all well and missing me LOADS :-P I know I miss all of you and SO wish you were here on this trip with me.
Love n hugs,
Sonal-xxxx-
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9 March 2010 03:54
Hola from El Calafate
Hi All,
Our real adventure has begun... we have left the beautiful cities of Rio and Buenos Aires behind and started our journey into rugged (but gorgeous) Patagonia.
Our journey began last week when we flew down to Ushuaia, the very tip of South America! Absolutely stunning little town surrounded by water and rugged landscape (pointy Andes) on all sides. We could even see Chile from where we were. We enjoyed walking amongst Magellan penguins and sailing in the Beagle Channel (can`t believe my hero Charles Darwin sailed here just a few centuries ago!!) on our very first day. Needless to say we were knackered and thoroughly enjoyed a good night's sleep in the best beds we have slept in in a LONG time!! Our hostels have been REALLY nice so I shouldnt complain, but Alba's in Ushuaia was a real home away from home! Even though she was like a bossy Mother bustling around us and tutting when we left later than 9am every morning, we really enjoyed staying with her because we knew she was really kind hearted and liked us (she kinda reminded me of someone ;) *grin*)!
Anyway, after our first day there we became very organized and planned activities for the next few days until we flew to El Calafate yesterday. On our first full day in Ushuaia, I had a real taste of proper trekking when we went to the National Park at Tierra del Fuego. I was thrilled to discover I could get my passport stamped with the stamp from the 'End of the World'. Just happened to have it in my backpack at the time! After we hiked for 8Km (sounds better than 5miles), which was supposed to take 3hrs but ended up taking us 4hrs (not bad for beginners on empty tummies), sitting on gorgeous beaches along the way and taking tons of pictures of the lagoons and the Andes in the distance. This was all on TJ's camera as mine sadly died that morning... I've bought another one :( but I miss my old camera, we had such good times together! Oh well... I dropped it SO many times, I shouldnt have expected any different really!
Okay - so we did Tierra del Fuego and decided that we needed to pack sandwiches and take them with us to these places, which are seriously in the middle of nowhere!! I love my camelback backpack, which can hold 1.5ltrs of water (but ofcourse I have to carry that much with me AND if I drink it I know I will need a loo in 20mins or so!!!). Which reminds me, TMI (too much info) I know but I also took my first loo break in the wilderness!! Had to leave my mark somehow ;)
On our third day in Ushuaia we were SO much more prepared... we had a lovely packed lunch of ham sandwiches with my favourite chimichurri sauce and bought these HUGEmongous tomatoes to eat (like apples) with them. We hikes up Glaciar Martial, which is TJ's favourite mountain in Ushuaia because it has this incredible chunk covered in snow and we almost made it all the way to the top!!! I was very impressed with our abilities that day... we kept to the time recommended by the guide and made it on almost all the trails. Found a gorgeous spot to stop for lunch, overlooking the entire city, the Andes and the Beagle Channel in between. We have tons of pics but can't find a way to upload them yet... will do at our next stop.
The following day we decided to take it easy and plan for the next couple of weeks as we really have nothing booked (hotels or transportation etc). So we spent the day checking out the city center and basically researching the best way north past Bariloche into Bolivia. It's not going to be easy!
The day after we flew to El Calafate with LOADs of turbulence thanks to the crazy winds across the Andes.
We arrived here safe n sound yesterday afternoon and have completely fallen in love with this place. I can't explain how shocked TJ and I were when we were approaching the ground and we couldn't see even ONE house around! It's all barren dessert (Mum: Ajj was right!!!). We had NO idea what the terrain would be like and definitely didn't imagine a completely desolate place. However, a 40min drive later we arrived IN El Calafate which rose like an oasis in the middle of this dessert, surrounded by the largest lake in SA (Lago Argentina) which is the blueist lake I have EVER seen in my whole entire life!!!
Yesterday was spent treating ourselves to a lovely steak lunch and then enjoying our food coma all evening after booking our excursions and trip down to Chile after this stay. Our hotel is absolutely gorgeous and we definitely lucked out again... it has no internet though so keeping in touch is going to be tough. We still have our phone though its for emergencies as we're running out of credit. I'll try calling before we leave on the 11th.
Today was the highlight of my ENTIRE SA adventure thus far... we went for mini-trk (cant imagine why its called MINI, there was NOTHING mini about it trust me) on the Perito Merino glacier!!!! It was absolutely breathtaking and I've taken over 500 pics of ice, so you can imagine how crazy we went when we saw it. We saw it from three different angles... from balconies, from a ship that took us right alongside the glacier, so you can see the immense height and then we got off on the other side ONTO the glacier! I can't explain the exhilleration we felt walking right UPTO the massive glacier and then putting crampons on our boots to go hiking up on to the glacier and then DEEEEP into it to see the crevices and little lakes the melted water has created along the way. Supposedly these are 120meters above the water and go another 100 meters below the surface!! It wasn't cold thanks to the glorious sunshine (and u can imagine the tan NOW! *ugh*) but sooooo windy!! I can't wait to share the pics with you guys.
Must run... hope this is a newsy enough email for now as I doubt I'm going to have internet access again for a while.
We're off to Chile tomorrow... don't worry we're not going to the impacted region, which is in the north. We're only heading to Torres del Paine and a little town closeby called Puerto Natales where we'll be staying for a few days, until we travel back into Argentina for a 36hrs journey up north to Bariloche!! *sigh*
Hope all's well with all of you. I miss having all of you with me here... TJ's fed up of me talking about how much Rohan & Jaime would love these hikes (more than me), or Dad, Sonu, Manish & Keith would love the steaks, or how crazy Indi would get seeing all the stray dogs that seem to be EVERYWHERE in this region, or how Mum would LOVE the people and probably take everyone home with her!! David would seriously be skinny by the time he left this place as vegetables do not exist here. I haven't seen brocoli since the frozen ones in Buenos Aires!! As for you Debbie... O M G in TJ's words, you really have to go to the end of the World to find some good looking men ;) Ofcourse I found my honey closer to home (thank God). LOL
Umm... now I really have to run.
Love you all loads,
Sonal
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9 March 2010 19:05
Pics from Perito Moreno
Just a few Pics from Perito Moreno yesterday
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9 March 2010 19:07
A few more pics from Perito Moreno
Had already shared these with Keith, just fwding on to you guys as well.
Lots of love,
Sonal
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12 March 2010 03:38
Subject: Chile
Hi All,
Quick note to let you know that we have arrived safely in Puerto Natales, Chile. The weather here is pretty erratic and I'm worried about our hike tomorrow up in the Torres del Paine! Will let you know how it goes.
We return to Argentina on Sunday, and in the meantime we're staying at a really fabulous place called Las Carretas. This town looks like a council estate up in Stafford or something!!! We were sooo worried when we got off the bus, but were thrilled to find another little oasis in the desert. We have lovely guest house people and are thrilled with the high standards when all around looks so desolate!
If you need to call, we're in Room 2. The number here is: (0) 61 414 584
Absolutely no idea of the country codes etc at the moment. Feel pretty lost here, thank God everyone speaks Spanish (even tho we're not great at it)!
Love u all loads,
--
Sonal
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16 March 2010 00:13
Subject: All's well
Hi All
All's well. Just to let you know that we made it back into Argentina without too much hassle, except a few aching bones and stiff legs after our crazy hike the prev day!!! We're heading to Bariloche this evening, here are the details of the place we're staying at:
Condor de los Andes
+54-29-44-522-448
Hope all's well at all your ends.
Dad: Sorry to hear about your car breaking down. Hope all's been fixed now? miss u
Indi: missing our chats like hell!!!
Sonu/Mum/Keith: Have already emailed u guys, miss you too :)
Lots of love
--
Sonal
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18 March 2010 00:31
Hi
Hi my darling Daddykins
Feels like ages since I heard from you... have been dying to call and chat with you & will perhaps try tonight when it's your daytime. The time diff really makes it tough...
We had a pretty good journey from Rio Gallegos to Bariloche... the bus was super comfortable, we had bucket seats that went almost completely flat, but I had a tallllll Danish boy sitting behind me so I felt guilty reclining all the way crushing his poor legs!!! Anyway, a restless journey later we finally got to Bariloche, the Lake District of Patagonia and we decided to take a break today, and just get to know the town and our neighbourhood. We'll be here until Sat, when we take ANOTHER bus journey to Buenos Aires!!! Just finished having a lazy morning, researching hostels in the next few places we're heading to in Bolivia and booking what we can from here. It's going to be a rough few weeks ahead, so don't be worried if you dont know where we are at times. I hope our cellphone will work there!!
The place we're staying at is truly a hostel!!! It has absolutely no luxury, except it is bang smack in the middle of town and looks like a Swiss chalet from outside. The kitchen and common areas are really cosy, and our bedroom has two bunk beds! Aside from that its just our bathroom that we have to get comfortable with... the water in the shower takes forever to drain and the shower itself goes from cold to tepid!! Very annoying, but we've decided to deal with it since we've had NO experience of such a place so far. Might as well see what 'roughing it out' really means.
S'all for now. We're heading for a walk by the lake now so hope to have some pics from this place.
Love u loads,
--
Sonal
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18 March 2010 02:57
hi Daddykins
The Inca trail is still on for now... have to email the tour people to double check as the trail was shut for Feb and March due to the landslides in January. They are due to re-open in April but there are doubts as to the trails that can be used! All our trekking thus far has been in preparation for this massive once-in-a-life experience, so I hope (even though I'm secretly shitting myself about it) things will be okay in the end.
Love u loads...
Sonal
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18 March 2010 09:11
It'd be sad to miss out on Machu-pichu and the Inca trail, as also the Mayan temples, having gone to South America! I do hope you get a chance to manage these into your itinerary as well...
Sonal, haven't really had a breathing moment to think about my health Baby!
So take it that it is good - as long as there is no issue that's demanding attention or inter vention.
You take of yourself.
Love
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22 March 2010 04:31
Subject: Update
Hi All,
Just to let you guys know that all's well at this end. We arrived in Buenos Aires a few hrs ago and our staying our favourite part of town (Palermo). Feels great being back, even though it's just for a day!
The bus journey down to BA was surprisingly comfortable and both TJ and I were thrilled by the incredible service! Imagine Business Class (airplane) style reclinable seats, with pillow and blanket included. To top it off we got two meals, one for dinner (pasta and salad + vino!!!) and one for breakfast (croissants, jam and coffee). The best part was that they show movies on a large screen hanging from the roof (I swear domestic and international plane people need to learn a thing or two from this type of service)... I watched a fantastic one called 7 pounds with Will Smith (cried my eyes out tho so I dont recommend you watch it) and then another one called 12 Rounds (which was stupid).
We're making the most of our last night in a clean hotel with toilet that actually has TP! We've heard very interesting stories about Bolivia and Peru, so we're stocking up on everything now!!
Please don't worry if you don't hear from us in the next few days as we're literally spending one night in every tiny little town once we arrive in Bolivia tomorrow. Our route in case you get worried is: Buenos Aires to Santa Cruz (Bolivia) where we'll be spending one night. The next day we are hopefully taking a bus or train to Oruro, where we hope to find a place to stay. The day after we travel to Uyuni where we finally get to see Salar de Uyuni (the Salt Flats). Finally we'll make our way to La Paz by the weekend, where we'll be staying for a few nights. Will send you details of the hotel there once the route in between is a tad more finalized.
The hotel we're staying at in Santa Cruz is:
HI Copacabana
Calle Junin No: 217
Santa Cruz
p. +591 7 73 42 505
We'll call and email when possible.
Love n hugs,
--
Sonal
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22 March 2010 22:52
Sonee baby,
The only thing I do not like in your latest (copied below) is the highlighted part.
Reg "...Oruro, where we hope to find a place to stay."
Do take care, both of you.
I thought Keith had plans of joining you when you were to be in Bolivia. What happened to that?
Love you,
Daddy
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